Dana 60 with 2.5" wide brakes

This page well tell you what I used for my disc brake conversion and I will also try and give you a good description

Of what it entails and what you will need for tools.

List of tools

  1. a 3# sledge hammer and punch
  2. drill (preferable a drill press)
  3. a can of spray paint any color
  4. basic hand tools (if you don't have these don't bother with the conversion)
  5. vise grip pliers
  6. 1/2'' drill bit

List of materials

  1. Front caliper brackets from a 1976/1977 ford 4X4 Dana 44 front end (THE CENTER HOLE MUST MEASURE 4 AND 1/8"(left) IF IT IS LARGER THEN IT WONT WORK THEY ALSO HAD ONE THAT MEASURES 4 AND 1/2"(right) THE CENTER HOLE IS TO BIG FOR THE CONVERSION)

  2. Dual piston calipers for the same
  3. Brake pads NAPA #(TS7013AM)
  4. A set of rotors for a 3/4 or 1ton ford 4X4 1976-1998 will fit NAPA# (4885731)
  5. Dust shield is optional (I use them )
  6. Brake hoses for a 1968 2wd 3/4 front with drum brake (I found to best fit) NAPA part # (36531)
  7. New wheel studs recommended NAPA# (6413157)
  8. 8 (Grade 5 bolts) that is for mounting the brackets since the original bolts are a shade short
  9. Caliper mounting kit Napa #(82188A)

(Note this is for a Dana 60 with 2 1/2" x 12 brake drums have not tried on the 2"x 12 system, clearance problem may arise also all the pictures are on the drivers side of the truck)

Okay now that you got everything lined up I assume since you are taking on this task that you have a knowledge of disassembling the rear hub assembly so I will not go in to details on that part. Also this conversion has no provisions for an emergency brake, I am working on a driveling brake for my rigs. As with any custom conversion the owner of the truck accepts full responsibility of the conversion I will not accept any liability of any sort modifying your brakes may be illegal in your state so check with your local authorities before attempting the conversion thank you

Now that said I will explain to the best I can on how to convert so bear with me. First is the disassembly after you pull you hub/drum off undo your brake line and e-brake cable then remove the backing plate so all you have left is the mounting flange and spindle. Next take your caliper bracket for the side you are working on and put it on in the same relation as your front caliper bracket is. Then use your vise grip to clamp it to the mounting flange careful not to cover any of the 4 mounting holes on the flange you might have to adjust the bracket so the 4 holes in the flange do not hit any of the five holes in the bracket. However the front top hole on the flange will hit on of the brackets holes you may need to oblong the brackets hole. Once you got it fine tuned and centered on the spindle take your spray paint and paint the four holes in the flange this gives you a pattern to drill. Then drill the four holes and then bolt the bracket on the flange repeat the same steps for the other side.




Hub/drum to hub/disc conversion set hub/drum assembly on a hard flat surface hub side up then use your hammer and with the punch drive out the studs. Now the hub and drum will separate it may need a little coaxing then put on the disc in reverse order using the hammer and punch method drive the new studs into the assembly from the back side until the studs are seated.




I recommend new seals at this point but that is your call. Now reassemble the hub/disc assembly to the axle. Now you can treat it as a front end for brake service. I should not have to tell you how to do that I would hope.




When I first did this conversion back in 1991 On my one ton,  I was told that I would have to replace the master cylinder, proportioning valve, and vacuum booster. I did not replace those items I figured I would try it first and then go from there I recommend the same for your setup, everything worked good for me so I left the rest of the brake stuff alone.

The Pictures are from the picador's rear axle as I did the conversion on it 1999